Match the rig to the trips you actually take, then match the campsite to the rig. A Class B van fits a national park road and parks in a town; a 35 ft fifth wheel needs a pull-through site, 50 amp service, and a plan for every fuel stop. The expensive mistakes are almost always mismatches between rig size and campsite type, not failures of the vehicle.

The five rig types

Type Length Sleeps Towing Best for
Class A motorhome 26–45 ft 4–8 None (flat tow) Long stays, families, full-time
Class B van 17–22 ft 2 None Touring, stealth camping, two people
Class C motorhome 21–33 ft 4–6 Optional Families, national parks
Travel trailer 16–35 ft 2–6 Half-ton to one-ton truck Basecamp, unhook and drive
Fifth wheel 27–42 ft 4–8 One-ton truck Long stays, residential comfort
Pop-up / truck camper 8–20 ft 2–4 Small truck or SUV Weekend trips, easy storage

A travel trailer is the most flexible compromise: unhook at camp and drive the truck into town. A Class B is the most nimble and the least comfortable in rain for more than two people.

Hookups: 30 amp versus 50 amp

Service Voltage Max draw Runs
15/20 amp household 120 V 15–20 A Charger, lights, laptop
30 amp 120 V 30 A (3,600 W) One air conditioner, microwave
50 amp 240 V 50 A (12,000 W) Two ACs, electric water heater, induction

Most 30 amp rigs need an adapter for a 50 amp pedestal (dogbone), and most 50 amp rigs can run on 30 amp with load management: one AC, no microwave while the AC runs. Carrying both a 50-to-30 dogbone and a 30-to-15 adapter covers nearly every pedestal.

Water and sewer are separate: a fresh water hose (white), a grey/black drain hose (black), and a pressure regulator. A water pressure regulator is the cheapest insurance in RV camping — some parks run 80 psi and split fittings.

Tanks: capacity and the order of operations

Tank Typical capacity Rule
Fresh water 20–100 gal Fill at the campground, not on the road
Grey water 20–60 gal Fills fastest; showers and dishes
Black water 15–45 gal Empty when 2/3 full, never dry
Propane 20–40 lb 1 lb ≈ 21,600 BTU

Dump black first, then grey — the grey rinse clears the hose. Never open the black valve with the hose connected unless the valve is closed at the other end. Use a clear elbow so you can see when the flow stops.

Budget: the numbers people miss

Item Annual cost Notes
Insurance $400–1,200 Higher for full-time
Storage $0–1,800 $75–150/month outdoors
Maintenance $500–1,500 Tires every 5–7 years
Fuel $0.15–0.35/mile 8–12 mpg typical
Campground fees $25–80/night Full hookup
Depreciation 10–20%/year The largest cost for new rigs

A used rig bought outright is usually cheaper than a new one financed over ten years. Budget the tires and the roof reseal before the upgrades.

Season: winter changes the routine

  • Freezing nights: drain the fresh lines, or keep the furnace on and the cabinet doors open.
  • Winterizing: blow out the lines with 30 psi or fill with non-toxic antifreeze; bypass the water heater.
  • Storage: cover the tires, leave vents cracked, and remove food.
  • Summer: shade the fridge vent; an absorption fridge loses 20–30 °F of cooling in direct sun.

Hookup checklist at arrival

  1. Level side to side, then front to back; chock the wheels.
  2. Connect power, check the pedestal breaker first.
  3. Water with a regulator and a filter.
  4. Sewer hose with a downhill run and a support.
  5. Open the propane slowly; check the detector.
  6. Photograph the pedestal meter if the park charges by usage.

The next step after your first trip

The next step is not an upgrade; it is a shakedown. Camp one night within an hour of home, use every system — water, power, tanks, heat — and write down what failed. That list is your purchase plan for the season.

Where to go next

For the black tank procedure in detail, see the black tank guide; for power systems, the electricity and solar guide; for booking, the reservation guide.