The hookup is the part of RV camping that damages equipment. A 30 amp RV plugged into a 50 amp pedestal without an adapter, a water hose without a regulator, or a sewer hose connected before the tank is full — each is a cheap mistake with an expensive repair. Do the five connections in order, and never skip the regulator.
Amperage: 30 versus 50
| Service | Voltage | Capacity | Typical RV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 30 amp | 120 V | 3,600 W | Small travel trailers, Class B |
| 50 amp | 240 V | 12,000 W | Class A, fifth wheels, big trailers |
| 20 amp (household) | 120 V | 2,400 W | Trickle charging only |
A 50 amp RV can plug into a 30 amp pedestal with an adapter, but you lose the second leg: one air conditioner instead of two, no electric water heater while the microwave runs.
A 30 amp RV must never be plugged into a 50 amp outlet without a proper adapter — the RV’s main breaker protects it, but the adapter is what makes the connection physically possible.
Adapters
| Adapter | Use |
|---|---|
| 50 A male → 30 A female | 30 A RV at a 50 A pedestal |
| 30 A male → 15 A female | Household outlet, short-term only |
| 15 A male → 30 A female | Charging at home |
| Dogbone style | Relieves strain on the pedestal |
Use a dogbone rather than a puck adapter: the flexible shape takes the weight off the outlet, which is where pedestals fail.
Water pressure
| Pressure | Action |
|---|---|
| Under 40 psi | Fine, no regulator needed |
| 40–60 psi | Regulator recommended |
| 60–80 psi | Regulator required |
| Above 80 psi | Do not connect without a regulator |
Park pressure can exceed 100 psi. A $15 regulator protects the RV’s plumbing from a $300 repair. Use a brass-bodied regulator with a gauge, and fit it at the pedestal, not at the RV inlet.
Sewer connection
- Connect the hose to the RV outlet first, then to the park inlet.
- Use a hose support so the line falls continuously to the drain.
- Open the black tank valve only when the tank is at least two-thirds full.
- Close the black valve, then open the grey valve to flush the hose.
- Disconnect, cap, and store the hose separately from everything else.
Never leave the black valve open at a full-hookup site. Liquids drain and solids stay, and the tank forms a mound that no amount of water dissolves.
Leveling
| Side-to-side | Method |
|---|---|
| Under 1 in | Ignore |
| 1–4 in | Leveling blocks under the low wheels |
| 4–8 in | Stacked blocks or a ramp |
| Over 8 in | Move the site |
Level before you extend slides or run the fridge. A fridge run off-level for hours damages the cooling unit, and slides extended on an uneven rig bind in their tracks.
Arrival order
| Step | Action |
|---|---|
| 1 | Park, chock the wheels, set the parking brake |
| 2 | Level side-to-side, then front-to-back |
| 3 | Connect power, check the pedestal breaker first |
| 4 | Connect water with the regulator |
| 5 | Connect sewer, black valve closed |
| 6 | Extend slides, then connect cable and satellite |
| 7 | Turn on the water heater last |
Check the pedestal breaker before plugging in — a tripped breaker at a park pedestal is common, and it looks like a dead RV.
Departure order
| Step | Action |
|---|---|
| 1 | Dump black, then grey |
| 2 | Close valves, disconnect and cap the sewer hose |
| 3 | Disconnect water, drain the hose |
| 4 | Disconnect power, coil the cord |
| 5 | Retract slides and awning |
| 6 | Retract levelers, remove chocks |
| 7 | Walk the site for blocks, cables, and trash |
Do the walk-around last and slowly. The items left behind are almost always small: chocks, a water filter, the dog’s bowl.
Common hookup failures
| Failure | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| No power at the pedestal | Tripped breaker | Reset the breaker, then plug in |
| Breaker trips when the AC starts | 30 A service, two loads | Run one appliance at a time |
| Water tastes odd | Stale park line | Run the tap, use a filter |
| Sewer smell in the rig | Dry P-trap or open valve | Add water to traps, close valves |
| Fridge not cooling | Unlevel site | Re-level, restart |
Most “broken RV” reports at a campground are one of these five, and four are user error rather than equipment failure.
Cost per night
| Site type | Cost |
|---|---|
| Full hookup, public | $30–55 |
| Full hookup, private | $45–85 |
| Water and electric only | $25–45 |
| Dry camping | $0–20 |
| Monthly rate | $500–900 |
Electricity is the cost that varies: in summer, two air conditioners on a metered site can add $10–15 a night.
The adapter kit worth carrying
| Adapter | Covers |
|---|---|
| 50 A to 30 A dogbone | Older parks with 50 A only |
| 30 A to 15 A | Friend’s driveway, short stays |
| 15 A to 30 A | Charging at home |
| Water pressure regulator with gauge | Every park |
| 90-degree sewer elbow | Tight pedestals |
Three adapters and a regulator cover almost every pedestal in North America and fit in a small bag.
Before you book
- Confirm the pedestal amperage; 50 amp sites are not universal.
- Ask about water pressure if the park is at low elevation.
- Check the site’s length and pull-through versus back-in.
- Confirm the dump station is on site or nearby.
Where to go next
For the black tank procedure, see the black tank guide; for power basics, the battery and shore power guide; for winter prep, the winter checklist.
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